HSF #10 - Literature and HSF #22 Masquerade -Fancy Dress Queen of Hearts

As you can see I'm not terribly worried about doing challenges early (although cannot start them before they are announced) or late.  I simply want them all done so as to keep my creative juices flowing and learn some new skills.  I'm also horribly late on blogging about some of them because I have been very busy.

So close to being done.  I eventually spaced out the hearts on the sash more.

This dress was created to be part of the Dickens Fair Alice in Wonderland cast.  As you can see it is a Queen of Hearts dress.  I worked hard to combine a sense of puled from the attic trunks and freshly put together.

The bodice is actually an Elizabethan bodice from a costume I bought from friend. The ruffle and the sleeves are from the skirt fabric of the same dress.  The black cotton velvet skirt and oversleeves are part fabric purchased from a friends de-stash.  The gold fringe was originally left over from the bustle dress (Oh good lord, I haven't shown you all photos of THAT either...) but I was lucky to be able to source more since I would be needing it.

Long story shortened:

Lots of pins were used...

I started by dying 1/2 inch twill tape black and cutting out and hemming the knife pleated ruffle for the hem of the skirt.  I originally calculated that I would use 3 panels of the black velvet and ended up having to add another panel.  This meant that the red ruffle was 522 inches long and I made it 8 inches deep.  I feretted the hem 18th Century style so the black twill would peak out at the bottom.  Then I pleated the ruffle onto one inch twill tape so it would be removable if necessary.

I used the same treatment for the Black velvet skirt, except that I used white one inch twill to ferret the hem there it was supposed to give a nice pop at the transition - but it wasn't as dramatic as I had hoped. The skirt is cartridged pleated into a grosgrain waistband (which I may replace).

I added a peplum to the bodice to make it more Victorian looking and add two sets of sleeves and poof! The sash was a trial because I wanted to match/compliment the fringe that I had already added to the dress so I ended up using a brushed twill and the wrong side of gold lamé to make the sash.  I added more fringe to the ends of the sash and stiched it together in such a way that I have one wee little pocket to hold my gate pass and a couple of bills since I don't carry a bag (what queen does?) and voilà! A fancy Fancy Dress Queen of Hearts!


The Challenge: Literature & Masquerade

Fabric: cotton Velvet (black and red), red silk taffeta, and white silk, brushed twill and some lamé
Pattern: none... o.O, I drafted everything free hand or used a toile I had on hand...
Year: 1850-1860 Fancy Dress
Notions: LOTS of thread, hooks & eyes, twill tape, dye,grosgrain ribbon, three tone Italian tassel fringe... and a lot of patience
How historically accurate is it? I think its pretty good.  The fabrics are correct (except maybe the lamé - which could probably substitute for cloth of gold - but since I'm using the wrong side it makes no never-mind except that it wiggles when you sew... :()
Hours to complete:I don't think I want to add it up.  I've been working at it since early October (evenings and weekends and put the finishing touches on by the second weekend of Fair.   I'd say a good starting estimate is 2-3 40 hour weeks (lots and lots of hand sewing). I've a couple of things left to tweak, but it is wearable and beautiful.
First worn: Dickens Fair November 2013
Total cost: somewhere between $400 and $500 for materials, labor?  80 to 120 hours - so a final cost is $1,200 to $2,900 depending on the hourly rate at which I pay myself (mentally that is and NOT including accessories).... o.O


*** I PROMISE to add photos of me IN the dress and a post about the Bustle Gown is forthcoming... Just look for me on Facebook if you don't want to be patient.

Progess on Dickens costumes

Well, there hasn't bee a lot of it...  my arthritis is kicking in horribly... nevertheless, I was able to finish the ruffs for Punch and Judy.

Judy only requires a mob cap with a red ribbon, a ruff, a pinafore apron, and a baby.  So I just need to make up a baby and find a ribbon.

Punch will be more difficult, but I'm working on it slowly.  I've gathered the materials and just need to figure out sizing....  Does anyone's little boy want to play Punch?

QoH - I've cut out the skirt of the bodice and patterned the oversleeves.  I need to mock up the under-sleeves to make sure they fit the armscye.

The ruff - really a ruffle mostly handstitched and ties on so it is adjustable.

Challenge #20: Outerwear #3 The story behind the Pelisses...

I apologize for the lack of updates here, but I've been busy.  I posted a little about Victoria's Pelisse here. and a little about my own here.  But I thought a bit more description/information is warranted.  See I've some sewing experience, I consider myself an intermediate seamstress, but I've NO experience AT ALL when it comes to tailoring.  Also, this is my first time using wool (nice thick fat warm wool).  I sew on a Singer Merritt 4350 that was given to me in 1990 when I joined the military and moved away from home.  So the idea of sewing outerwear was daunting to say the least.  However, I needed to have two warm coats for a Regency era sailing trip in October in the SF Bay Area.  So off I went to find fabric and I lucked into a great sale at Fabrics.com.  I was able to obtain a couple of lovely wool blends at $2.95/yard!  I also ordered a lovely cotton print to line the jacket with (alas the fabric for mine was out of stock).

I started by making mock-ups.  I usually turn such things into linings and was lucky enough to (mostly) be able to do that here.  They are made differently and each suits our personality I think.  Victoria's is a no nonsense kind of coat with a lined bodice and sleeves but an unlined skirt.  Mine is a little more lively with a lined bodice and skirt, but because I will be wearing long sleeved dress I did not line the sleeves.

Vicki's took a little more doing because she has scoliosis so we decided to avoid the collar and such and to fit the jacket to HER instead of just making the jacket and then altering it to work for her.  We could have added a shoulder pad for the right shoulder to bring it more in line with the left, but I felt it was more period to follow her body's shape than to create the illusion of another shape.  Her left shoulder is 4cm (~1.5 inches) higher than her right and the apex of her left breast is higher too. Oddly enough her right breast "looks" larger than her left - but I think its an illusion based on the fact that her left breast stretches upwards  I think they both have the same mass but that mass is distributed differently on her body.  Think of her rib cage like a fan on the horizontal plane.  The left side is spread open a bit and the right side is closed up just a little tighter to compensate.  Just like you do when you stretch to reach something, but hers never relaxes back to normal.  So while visually her pelisse looks "off" it really isn't. It took a lot of patience and taking it apart and putting it back together to make it fit but it worked.

My pelisse has a fuller skirt to accommodate my hips ('cuz well I got 'em).  Also, I kind of like the swing.  I added a blue lining to the skirt so that when it moves you get glimpses of blue... I used a print in the bodice that looks a bit 18th century.  The collar was a little tough because the pattern has you cut out the top and bottom the same size and I later learned that you want to cut the bottom layer about a 1/4 inch smaller than the top to accommodate for the fold over when its on the jacket.  I dealt with that by taking a tiny tuck along the bottom of the collar so that it lays prettier.  I even got an overlap on the bust and was able to make it double breasted (with machined buttonholes and everything!)  Also it looks a little like what I would expect a Hobbit's winter coat to look like...

Both jackets seem to be wearable in modern clothing (with the correct support). Which is nice. All in all, I'm rather pleased that I managed to make up actual wearable garments!

<wiping sweat off forehead> Now to less stressful sewing!  (I think I'll make me a huswife)

Challenge #20 Part 2 My Pelisse

      

  

Fabric: Wool/Poly blend - Lining is cotton (From my stash)
Pattern: Sense and Sensibility Spencer/Pelisse
Year: Regency (Roughly 1800-1820ish)
Notions: Buttons ($4.20)
How historically accurate is it? Pretty good, period pattern, fabric looks period, a mixture of machine and hand sewing.
Hours to complete:Several, I did this over the course of two weeks.  
First worn: For the Tall Ships in October
Total cost: < $30 (I have a couple of yards of wool left over).

Challenge #20: Outerwear #1 Vicki's Pelisse

  

Fabric: Wool/Poly blend - Lining is cotton
Pattern: Sense and Sensibility Spencer/Pelisse
Year: Regency (Roughly 1800-1820ish)
Notions: two brown coat hooks
How historically accurate is it? Pretty good, period pattern, fabric looks period, a mixture of machine and hand sewing.
Hours to complete:Several, I did this over the course of two weeks.  Vicki has scoliosis (her left shoulder is 4 cm higher than her right) so it took a lot of fitting and adjusting and taking things apart (even with a mock-up)!
First worn: For the Tall Ships in October
Total cost: > $30 (I have a couple of yards of wool and cotton left over).

Jen's Pelisse, Part One

So I'm using the Sense and Sensibility Spencer/Pelise Pattern to make outerwear for our Tall Ship Adventure.  I've cut out the pattern size based on my corseted measurements.  After fitting it on my dress form (Prof Sprout) - its's WAY to big.  It doesn't help that I cut out the double breasted pattern and want the front edges to kiss and if that was the only difference I wouldn't be frustrated already.  However it is still too big when I fold that back.  Photos below.  At this point I've pinned it in two different ways to see what I will like better.  

These first two photos show the double breasted overlap and how much excess fabric there STILL is...

On the left (which is the wearer's right side) I'm taking the excess out of center front. On the right I'm taking it out of the princess seam.  Right now I'm liking the left side better, but I'm going to try it on to see over my dress etc to make sure I'm not pinning too much out.  On both sides I've taken two inches from the front piece...  Below are more photos showing the pinning.

   

It's quiet...

...because I'm working on some gifts.  The HSF #23 isn't until November 18th but it put me in mind that I wanted to make most of my gifts for this Holiday season.  Most of what I'm working on won't qualify due to timing, but I have time now while I wait on fabric to arrive...

Upcoming, expect to see winter hats and pelisses for the GBACG Tall Ships Adventure in October and a new Queen of Hearts dress for the HSF Masquerade Challenge and for Dickens (If the costume gods and my Director approve it).  Also, I recently realized that I don't have a period ball gown; so I will be making a regency ball gown out of some green satin-ish fabric.  Also, if the fabric gods are kind I may have enough of the black velvet left over from the QoH dress to make a regency mourning dress...(insert squees here)

I ordered the Regency boots (called the Hartfield) from the American Duchess.  This will be my third pair of shoes from her and I can't say enough good things about them.  I am a 6.5 but buy a half to a full size up so I can use my inserts and wear socks (my silk stockings work fine at only a half size up, so I'm trying a full size up to see if the thicker knitted cotton stockings will do).

I've been finishing up some projects and have decided that the pink and brown plaid dress (Victorian) will need to become a ball gown as I have both a work dress and a wrapper now...

So that's about it!  I'm going to try out Trystan's Accessories Challenge.  It's only once a month (HA!) so it should be manageable... :)

Well, I'm 4 handmade gifts down and several more to go. So off I go "To the Sewing Room!"

HSF - #4 Embellish

We don't want to discuss how late I am with this one (ahem, MONTHS).  Although in reality I've done loads of embellishments since then, but this little project only fits this HSF challenge.  I originally made the reticule a couple of years ago when I first made my blue Dickens work dress.  This is the same fabric.  For this project I simply added an applique that I found in my grandmother's stash.  This will be my new everyday reticule for Regency... since most of those dresses are green or red this won't match so it will be perfect.

The Challenge: Embellish

Fabric: none

Pattern: none

Year: Regency Era

Notions:an applique from the stash

How historically accurate is it? weeelll, it isn't embroidered per se but it LOOKS like whitework - right?

Hours to complete:less than one (once I found and cleaned everything.

First worn: For Costume College

Total cost: nada

My VERY FIRST completely hand sewn dress! And HSF #18

Remember this?

Cartridge pleated skirt

Well, unfortunately 20 yards of Indian cotton doesn't pouf out a skirt much and while it was fun to make and learn that "Yes, I too can do it!" - its the perfect color for the next project (HSF #18) I have.  See, I want to make the jumper Anne Hathaway wears in Becoming Jane.

Screen Capture - Anne Hathaway - Becoming Jane (2007)

As you can see, its a sheer-ish dress but with a chemise and pantalettes, its very modest.  I was sick for much of the stitching, however the skirt is four panels re-gathered into the original waistband.  The bodice is simply two panels with a curve at the top and at the armsceye.  I also made the cord for the neckline by hand as well!  I don't need to tell you that it was really hard to turn the fabric until I figured out to use the smallest safety pin I owned...

The shirt is an old shirt that was in my repair basket.  I've had it for around 10 years and it was a favorite until the lace under the bodice tore.  I repaired it with the machine (zig-zag) and cut the full length sleeves into 3/4 ones and added the cuff/tie by hand.  (The shirt was done in a couple of hours this evening).

Ta-da!

        

HSF #18 -Re-make, Re-use & Re-fashion

Fabric: Indian cotton (from the skirt) and an old blouse I've had for about 10 years or so.

Pattern: hand drafted (on the fabric)

Year: roughly 1795

Notions: hook and bar, thread

How historically accurate is it? Its based on a movie costume - I've not seen extant examples that are similar, but a its a summer day dress it wouldn't have lasted long anyway.  Those were probably turned into quilts and rags when worn out.  Certainly not kept as treasures.

Hours to complete: about a week of hand sewing in the evenings (about 4 hours a day)

First worn: For the photos - but I'm taking it to costume college.  It feels comfortable enough to wear in class and not too distracting.

Total cost: $0 (Woo-hoo!)

Long Sleeve Chemise (aka HSF #13)

I love Regency - the clothes are just so comfortable... and I wanted to make a long sleeve chemise based off one I saw in a painting. 

Statens Museum for Kunst: Christoffer Wilhelm Eckersberg: The Nathanson Family 1818

As the chemise in the painting is sheer - and I'm going to be wearing it under a (probably) poly velvet dress I got at a festival fundraiser last year - I decided to use Indian cotton.  I purchase my fabric at a local Indian food store in in town at about $2/yard.  I'm sure the owners think I am crazy for all the turban fabric I buy...  

Since I was going for fast and easy, I used a pattern I've had for a while as the basis.  I went ahead and cut out full widths of fabric for the front and back pieces and pieced it together following the patterns instructions (from memory) and then measured my neckline.  After cutting out a rectangle about 30 inches long and 5 inches wide, I started to gather the bodice.  I used the "zigzag over thread" method of gathering that my Mam-ma used.  

I was worried about getting the armband tight enough to stay up until I decided to use elastic cord and the place the lace over it.    Check it out!

The Challenge: Lace and Lacing

Fabric: Indian cotton and cotton lace from my stash.

Pattern: Butterick 6196 (the shirt part)

Year: 1818

Notions: Lace and elastic cord

How historically accurate is it? Its mostly hand sewn and the fabric is cotton - but I used elastic cord so I wouldn't have to tie it every time...

Hours to complete: about a day

First worn: Not yet

Total cost: <$10

HSF # 12 - Pretty Pretty Princesses - Bustle style...

So this dress is my first really froofy dress.  It makes me feel all girlie and pretty - thus this outfit is my Pretty Pretty Princess outfit.

The Challenge: Pretty Pretty Princesses

Fabric:Linen, cotton, taffeta, tassels and lace

Pattern: Truly Victorian

Year: 1870's

Notions:hooks, eyes, covered buttons, twill tape

How historically accurate is it? natural fabrics, but modern construction (I used a machine)

Hours to complete:The entire outfit took quite a while for me.  I think all in all I've been working on it since mid-May - so about a month?

First worn: Tissot Picnic

Total cost: $40 or so for trim

Raspberry Sorbet Skirt - aka HSF - #6 Stripes

This challenge was due in March, but I'm more focused on completing as many challenges as I can rather than doing it on time.  This was a fairly easy skirt, but with only 3 yards of damaged fabric it posed some complications.  I was able to get 3 panels just under 30 inches long. The pleated ruffle is about 270 inches long (7.5 yards!).

A close up of the pleated ruffle.

Of course I had to add lace!

The Challenge: Stripes
Fabric: Sheer Pink with Stripe
Pattern: none
Year: 1870's (although I may be able to use it elsewhere)
Notions: hook and bar for closure
How historically accurate is it? It's a cotton and the trim is inspired by both Victorian foofy-ness and 18th century froth.
Hours to complete:4
First worn: the Tissot picnic
Total cost: Everything is from my stash excepting the lace which cost about 62¢ a yard.

HSF # 11 - Squares, Rectangles and Triangles

The Challenge: Squares, Rectangles and Triangles

Fabric: White Cotton

Pattern: none

Year: Bustle Era

Notions: 1 inch twill tape

How historically accurate is it? I used stash fabric so content in unreliable (most is from the 1980's and 90's).  The pattern is draped on Prof. Sprout (my dress form).

Hours to complete:4 hours (I had trouble setting the ruffles the way I liked)

First worn: not yet, for Tissot Picnic

Total cost: none

Quilted petticoat aka HSF #9

A couple of years ago I started purchasing fabric for a Georgian/Colonial American dress.  Then while at Walmart (I know, but they have very inexpensive mirrors in the fall) I saw this quilt in the store.  I picked up a King size and put it away to be sewn another day.  I thought it would be perfect for the flora and fauna challenge.  I love the colors and it seemed an easy project.

After doing some internet research, I found that most quilted petticoats are between 90" and 100" if worn without supports and can get up to 120" if worn over hoops.  Since most of my opportunities to wear costumes are in the Bay Area (a 45 minute drive at a minimum), I decided to make a 100" petticoat so that I could wear it under several eras worth of skirts and STILL fit in a car.

I made it in the 18th century skirt method where you build from the hem up and have two halves that tie around your waist.  This allowed me to keep the scallops as the skirt hem.  Taking my handy waist to floor measurement chart, I measured the quilt 45 inches up from the scallops to mark my cutting line.  Then was the more trying/time consuming part - although not NEARLY as time consuming as quilting it myself.  I took out the batting where I would be putting the seam (one - Center Back) and the waist tape (two inches all the way around)  I took out stitches and batting in sections and ended up varying the depth so that around the waist I didn't pull out partial designs.

I apologize, but I don't have a corset for this era yet.

With bustle/bum pad

Without bustle/bum pad

Front

The Challenge: Flora & Fauna

Fabric: Quilted bedspread

Pattern: none

Year: 18th century

Notions:thread, patience and 1" twill tape

How historically accurate is it? Its a modern quilt with a machined quilting design, but its 95% natural fibers and hand stitched.

Hours to complete:4 hours or so.  Most of which was pulling out batting around the seams.

First worn: For photo

Total cost: $20-$40

A Bustle Pad - and a rump or HSF #15 White.

After much thought and planning of how I was going to complete as many Historical Sew Fortnightly challenges, I decided that I needed to make a Bustle Pad, before I could make other items on my list.  See skirt length is important and I want to make a quilted petticoat for Flora and Fauna.  Just in time, the White Challenge was posted!  I don't wear white often, so making a Bustle Pad would be perfect. So I researched a lot of images and came to the idea that a pillow that is about the size of my rump would work.  I did some careful measuring of my attached rump and came up with the dimensions of approximately 11 inches long and 20 inches wide.  I of course cut out a semi oval approximately 22 inches wide and 14 inches tall.  For ease of drawing the pattern, I looked around for a large gently curving oval and lo! there was the turkey platter!  I drew my pattern onto the fabric directly and folded it in half (again) and proceeded to cut it out.  I added some eyelet lace and proceeded to stitch it together.  I machine-stitched it all (except the tufting.)  Stuffing it was fun ad I got to play with density and loft.  After sewing if all together, I added some tufts to control loft and keep the padding from moving around.  All in all from patterning to trying it on was only a couple of hours.

My William and Mary Turkey Platter as pattern!

I don't always press, but I do about 95% of the  time.

The Finished Product - A Bustle Pad and a Rump!

The Challenge: HSF # 15 - White (Due July 28, 2013)

Fabric: White sprigged cotton from my stash, polyfill

Pattern: does my turkey platter count?

Year: 1870-ish

Notions: d-ring, eyelet lace

How historically accurate is it?  depends - the look is definitely period, but modern techniques and fabrics.   

Hours to complete: 2?  from patterning to finish

First worn: not yet, for the Tissot Picnic.

Total cost: $.78 for a package of D Rings (of which I only used half.) The rest was from my stash.

HSF #3 Under it All

I finished my paniers on time, but didn't have time to blog about them until now.  I did the Panier A Long (kind of) and I decided to use cable ties as I've friends that use them instead of bones in corsets...  I'm still trying to decide if I want to add ties to the paniers, and I definitely want to put a proper waist band instead of a tie.  I splurged and got Toile for two reasons I like it and they won't get confused with someone else's paniers.  (Dicken's taught me that we should all add distinguishing touches to our items so that they are easily identifiable.)

    

The Challenge: Under It All

Fabric: Decorator weight toile

Pattern: the Panier a long!

Year: 18th century

Notions: twill tape, cable ties for bones

How historically accurate is it? Machine stitched and I used cable ties instead of reed for the bones otherwise it's fairly good. 

Hours to complete: 1 to cut it out - maybe three in total...

First worn: Not yet

Total cost: $20 for fabric and ties

HSF #2

The Challenge: UFO (UnFinished Object) - I ended up flossing the boning channels in my Regency Corset.  I had already shortened it enough, so I'm thinking that boning the channels (which I never got to after the alteration) will be enough.

Hours to complete: Really, less than one.  But I did it as I watched some TV.

Total cost: $0 all from my stash

HSF #1

A fichu

The Challenge: Sew something from __13, whether it be 1913, 1613, or 13BC

Fabric: Indian cotton

Pattern: self drafted

Year: 1713 ish

Notions: lace from my stash

How historically accurate is it? machine sewn and the lace isn't of natural fibers, so yes and no. ( I have theories about machine sewing and visions of my ancestresses hitting e over the head for not using one when I can.)

Hours to complete: 1-2

First worn: GBACG Open House Fashion show

Total cost: $0 all from my stash