Long Sleeve Chemise (aka HSF #13)

I love Regency - the clothes are just so comfortable... and I wanted to make a long sleeve chemise based off one I saw in a painting. 

Statens Museum for Kunst: Christoffer Wilhelm Eckersberg: The Nathanson Family 1818

As the chemise in the painting is sheer - and I'm going to be wearing it under a (probably) poly velvet dress I got at a festival fundraiser last year - I decided to use Indian cotton.  I purchase my fabric at a local Indian food store in in town at about $2/yard.  I'm sure the owners think I am crazy for all the turban fabric I buy...  

Since I was going for fast and easy, I used a pattern I've had for a while as the basis.  I went ahead and cut out full widths of fabric for the front and back pieces and pieced it together following the patterns instructions (from memory) and then measured my neckline.  After cutting out a rectangle about 30 inches long and 5 inches wide, I started to gather the bodice.  I used the "zigzag over thread" method of gathering that my Mam-ma used.  

I was worried about getting the armband tight enough to stay up until I decided to use elastic cord and the place the lace over it.    Check it out!

The Challenge: Lace and Lacing

Fabric: Indian cotton and cotton lace from my stash.

Pattern: Butterick 6196 (the shirt part)

Year: 1818

Notions: Lace and elastic cord

How historically accurate is it? Its mostly hand sewn and the fabric is cotton - but I used elastic cord so I wouldn't have to tie it every time...

Hours to complete: about a day

First worn: Not yet

Total cost: <$10

More Victorian Corset...

While the corset is functionally complete, I will add embellishments later on.

Victorian outfit...

So since I want to go to (and work) Dicken's Fair this year my main project is a Victorian outfit.  Well, really two since I want a fancy party dress (for GBACG day) and a work (Upper Middle Class) outfit.  As with everything in costuming, 'tis best to work from the inside out.  For further disclosure at the age of 18 (or so) I spent 6 months to a year playing around doing Civil War re-enactments and made a complete outfit. (Yes I went camping in my corset. I'll have to hunt up the photo(s) and post about it later.)

1. Chemise - While I want to make a new one with the Indian cotton that I made V's from, I've a perfectly acceptable substitute for now - an old nightgown made of lawn.
2. Pantalettes or drawers - Yes, they will be split crotch.  No, I haven't a pattern for them yet... Do you have ANY idea of how difficult it is to go to the ladies room in hoops and a corset?
3. Corset - project du jour
4. Corded petticoat - project for tomorrow (or next week or really when I can get to it.)
5. Hoop skirt or cage crinoline. - Sigh. My choices are:
1. Make one myself - I haven't done this in 20 years, but I know how. Without a pattern even. Really it's more about do I want to...  (The question becomes - Is it worth being able to say 'I made everything I'm wearing except the shoes...')  Supplies (if I use a pattern) will run
1. Pattern $10.50 (TV 142)
   
2. Hoop wire $48
3. Bone casing $24
4. oh an some fabric <2 yards and 5 yards of grosgrain ribbon...
5. plus shipping and time (I estimate it will take about one day to make.)
   
2. Buy one. <$100 - the down side to this is that it's hard to find hoops in natural fabrics...
6. Over-petticoat - the last time it was all ruffled like Scarlet's...
7. the Fancy dress... (TV 456) - I already have a pretty brown plaid for it... and some cool olive green trim...squee!
8. the Work dress - well I have a skirt (in blue), really I need to make a bodice to go with it.  The skirt is one I use for many eras, re-working the waist as necessary to add fullness to the back or even it out.

Well, I'm off to the fabric store to pick up grommets for the above mentioned corset... Wish me luck!

Chemise

I've just finished a chemise for my daughter.  It's made of Indian cotton.  Due to her unique fitting issues I decided to drape the fabric on her to get what I wanted. (One shoulder sits higher than the other)  This also made the hem look off but it sits well on her. the side seams are machined and flat felled by hand.  The neckline, armseye and hem are all hand stitched.  I find in calming to stitch by hand.  It should be good for several time periods as I made the straps narrow enough and put enough scoop in the neckline to allow the straps to be pulled down on the shoulder. I added a lining in the shoulders to help sturdy it up a bit.  It's fairly simple and she will be adding lace around the neckline. We are considering adding a ruffle at the bottom; but I want to get started on my Victorian corset now...