Accessorizing Head-to-Toe - November's Challenge - Fans

The Accessory:  I made a fan for the Queen of Hearts dress.  

Historical Period:  I went for the paddle type fans used in the Elizabethan era

Outfit It Accessorizes:  Queen of Hearts dress

Materials Used:  Velvet, cardboard, ribbon and cording

Techniques Used:  mostly cut out and glued (and a wee bit of sawing).... some sewing of the velvet to encase the cardboard and attach the cording.

Here you can see the slot I cut out of the end of the dowel.

I cut a slit out of one cardboard heart to fit in the dowel and then glued another heart onto each side to encase the dowel.

HSF #10 - Literature and HSF #22 Masquerade -Fancy Dress Queen of Hearts

As you can see I'm not terribly worried about doing challenges early (although cannot start them before they are announced) or late.  I simply want them all done so as to keep my creative juices flowing and learn some new skills.  I'm also horribly late on blogging about some of them because I have been very busy.

So close to being done.  I eventually spaced out the hearts on the sash more.

This dress was created to be part of the Dickens Fair Alice in Wonderland cast.  As you can see it is a Queen of Hearts dress.  I worked hard to combine a sense of puled from the attic trunks and freshly put together.

The bodice is actually an Elizabethan bodice from a costume I bought from friend. The ruffle and the sleeves are from the skirt fabric of the same dress.  The black cotton velvet skirt and oversleeves are part fabric purchased from a friends de-stash.  The gold fringe was originally left over from the bustle dress (Oh good lord, I haven't shown you all photos of THAT either...) but I was lucky to be able to source more since I would be needing it.

Long story shortened:

Lots of pins were used...

I started by dying 1/2 inch twill tape black and cutting out and hemming the knife pleated ruffle for the hem of the skirt.  I originally calculated that I would use 3 panels of the black velvet and ended up having to add another panel.  This meant that the red ruffle was 522 inches long and I made it 8 inches deep.  I feretted the hem 18th Century style so the black twill would peak out at the bottom.  Then I pleated the ruffle onto one inch twill tape so it would be removable if necessary.

I used the same treatment for the Black velvet skirt, except that I used white one inch twill to ferret the hem there it was supposed to give a nice pop at the transition - but it wasn't as dramatic as I had hoped. The skirt is cartridged pleated into a grosgrain waistband (which I may replace).

I added a peplum to the bodice to make it more Victorian looking and add two sets of sleeves and poof! The sash was a trial because I wanted to match/compliment the fringe that I had already added to the dress so I ended up using a brushed twill and the wrong side of gold lamé to make the sash.  I added more fringe to the ends of the sash and stiched it together in such a way that I have one wee little pocket to hold my gate pass and a couple of bills since I don't carry a bag (what queen does?) and voilà! A fancy Fancy Dress Queen of Hearts!


The Challenge: Literature & Masquerade

Fabric: cotton Velvet (black and red), red silk taffeta, and white silk, brushed twill and some lamé
Pattern: none... o.O, I drafted everything free hand or used a toile I had on hand...
Year: 1850-1860 Fancy Dress
Notions: LOTS of thread, hooks & eyes, twill tape, dye,grosgrain ribbon, three tone Italian tassel fringe... and a lot of patience
How historically accurate is it? I think its pretty good.  The fabrics are correct (except maybe the lamé - which could probably substitute for cloth of gold - but since I'm using the wrong side it makes no never-mind except that it wiggles when you sew... :()
Hours to complete:I don't think I want to add it up.  I've been working at it since early October (evenings and weekends and put the finishing touches on by the second weekend of Fair.   I'd say a good starting estimate is 2-3 40 hour weeks (lots and lots of hand sewing). I've a couple of things left to tweak, but it is wearable and beautiful.
First worn: Dickens Fair November 2013
Total cost: somewhere between $400 and $500 for materials, labor?  80 to 120 hours - so a final cost is $1,200 to $2,900 depending on the hourly rate at which I pay myself (mentally that is and NOT including accessories).... o.O


*** I PROMISE to add photos of me IN the dress and a post about the Bustle Gown is forthcoming... Just look for me on Facebook if you don't want to be patient.

Progess on Dickens costumes

Well, there hasn't bee a lot of it...  my arthritis is kicking in horribly... nevertheless, I was able to finish the ruffs for Punch and Judy.

Judy only requires a mob cap with a red ribbon, a ruff, a pinafore apron, and a baby.  So I just need to make up a baby and find a ribbon.

Punch will be more difficult, but I'm working on it slowly.  I've gathered the materials and just need to figure out sizing....  Does anyone's little boy want to play Punch?

QoH - I've cut out the skirt of the bodice and patterned the oversleeves.  I need to mock up the under-sleeves to make sure they fit the armscye.

The ruff - really a ruffle mostly handstitched and ties on so it is adjustable.

It's quiet...

...because I'm working on some gifts.  The HSF #23 isn't until November 18th but it put me in mind that I wanted to make most of my gifts for this Holiday season.  Most of what I'm working on won't qualify due to timing, but I have time now while I wait on fabric to arrive...

Upcoming, expect to see winter hats and pelisses for the GBACG Tall Ships Adventure in October and a new Queen of Hearts dress for the HSF Masquerade Challenge and for Dickens (If the costume gods and my Director approve it).  Also, I recently realized that I don't have a period ball gown; so I will be making a regency ball gown out of some green satin-ish fabric.  Also, if the fabric gods are kind I may have enough of the black velvet left over from the QoH dress to make a regency mourning dress...(insert squees here)

I ordered the Regency boots (called the Hartfield) from the American Duchess.  This will be my third pair of shoes from her and I can't say enough good things about them.  I am a 6.5 but buy a half to a full size up so I can use my inserts and wear socks (my silk stockings work fine at only a half size up, so I'm trying a full size up to see if the thicker knitted cotton stockings will do).

I've been finishing up some projects and have decided that the pink and brown plaid dress (Victorian) will need to become a ball gown as I have both a work dress and a wrapper now...

So that's about it!  I'm going to try out Trystan's Accessories Challenge.  It's only once a month (HA!) so it should be manageable... :)

Well, I'm 4 handmade gifts down and several more to go. So off I go "To the Sewing Room!"

HSF - #4 Embellish

We don't want to discuss how late I am with this one (ahem, MONTHS).  Although in reality I've done loads of embellishments since then, but this little project only fits this HSF challenge.  I originally made the reticule a couple of years ago when I first made my blue Dickens work dress.  This is the same fabric.  For this project I simply added an applique that I found in my grandmother's stash.  This will be my new everyday reticule for Regency... since most of those dresses are green or red this won't match so it will be perfect.

The Challenge: Embellish

Fabric: none

Pattern: none

Year: Regency Era

Notions:an applique from the stash

How historically accurate is it? weeelll, it isn't embroidered per se but it LOOKS like whitework - right?

Hours to complete:less than one (once I found and cleaned everything.

First worn: For Costume College

Total cost: nada

My VERY FIRST completely hand sewn dress! And HSF #18

Remember this?

Cartridge pleated skirt

Well, unfortunately 20 yards of Indian cotton doesn't pouf out a skirt much and while it was fun to make and learn that "Yes, I too can do it!" - its the perfect color for the next project (HSF #18) I have.  See, I want to make the jumper Anne Hathaway wears in Becoming Jane.

Screen Capture - Anne Hathaway - Becoming Jane (2007)

As you can see, its a sheer-ish dress but with a chemise and pantalettes, its very modest.  I was sick for much of the stitching, however the skirt is four panels re-gathered into the original waistband.  The bodice is simply two panels with a curve at the top and at the armsceye.  I also made the cord for the neckline by hand as well!  I don't need to tell you that it was really hard to turn the fabric until I figured out to use the smallest safety pin I owned...

The shirt is an old shirt that was in my repair basket.  I've had it for around 10 years and it was a favorite until the lace under the bodice tore.  I repaired it with the machine (zig-zag) and cut the full length sleeves into 3/4 ones and added the cuff/tie by hand.  (The shirt was done in a couple of hours this evening).

Ta-da!

        

HSF #18 -Re-make, Re-use & Re-fashion

Fabric: Indian cotton (from the skirt) and an old blouse I've had for about 10 years or so.

Pattern: hand drafted (on the fabric)

Year: roughly 1795

Notions: hook and bar, thread

How historically accurate is it? Its based on a movie costume - I've not seen extant examples that are similar, but a its a summer day dress it wouldn't have lasted long anyway.  Those were probably turned into quilts and rags when worn out.  Certainly not kept as treasures.

Hours to complete: about a week of hand sewing in the evenings (about 4 hours a day)

First worn: For the photos - but I'm taking it to costume college.  It feels comfortable enough to wear in class and not too distracting.

Total cost: $0 (Woo-hoo!)

Costume Build List (Part One)

Also known as The UnEnding List of Things to Do, But Make Me Happy So They Are Worth It.

So I took some time to sit down and write out all my projects.  I have two lists.  One if for myself and another is for Dickens.  My list includes projects for me, gifts and projects for Victoria and Meghan (They mostly need prodding to work on their projects but still its use of my machine.)  The projects for Charlie are lower priority, mostly because the are things for him to wear with Victoria...

This list does not include other sewing related tasks such as
Historical Sew Fortnightly (but I think some will apply!)
Attending Costume College
Helping Meghan Move
Moving Victoria's Room
Re-Instating my Sewing Room

Some items have deadlines (Dickens related things)- others do not (ie Kana has been a to-do for a couple of years now)

MY LIST

• Corded Petticoats (3? - one for each of the girls)
• Queen of Hearts (Two parts - repair and make another)
• Alice Cape - blue with white stripes (note to self - purchase 1' white grosgrain - ~20-30 yards)
• Alice muff - white rabbit fur of course 
• Sash for green stripe regency dress
• overdress (regency)
• pelisse
• curacao
• Pink Plaid
• Green Kirtle
• Chemise -Regency long sleeve
• 30's Dress (I will commission this one, but I have fabric..)
• 50's Dress
• Florentine (not yet finished, but technically wearable)
• Quilted Petticoat
• Round Gown
• Pantalettes (Alice, QoH, and a spare one or two)
• Pirate shirt (Victoria*)
• Blue Kirtle (Victoria)
• Breeches (Charlie)
• Coat (Charlie) - Actually he should have a couple Victorian, Revolutionary, and Regency
• Kana (Victoria)
• Belle Steampunk (Victoria*)
• Tricorns (cuz pirates amirite?)
• Blue Dress (Meghan*)
• Pantalettes (Meghan*)
• dino corset (Meghan - tudor style*)
• rapunzel corset (Meghan - 18th century style*)
• steampunk corset (Meghan - underbust*)

Its not much right?

Crochet hanger covers

So what do you do when your costume shop has expensive beaded dresses that fall off of the hangers?  (or 7 of them?)  You use up scrap crochet thread to make matching padded hangers.

Update:  Added photo during re-stocking...

Hoops - Caged

During a bazaar earlier this year I managed to pick up two old hoop skirts for $20.  So after some investigation I began to take apart this one. While the skirt is nice as you can see it just doesn't fit my more Rubenesque figure.  Also, the other hoops were actually a smaller circumference...

As inspiration, I used these instructions from the Dreamstress...  I also used some photos of cage crinolines... and the circumference of the TV141.  When I finished my cage, I threw the petticoat over it and noticed that I need to shorten it about an inch to be sure it stays under my petticoat - or I can "bag" the two bottom hoops.  Not quite sure which I will choose, but I'm happy.

So while I had a hard time finding info on the progression of the hoop sizes (without purchasing a pattern that is).  I decided that 10 inches would work for me since I only had four hoops.  I also worked from the bottom up.  Dicken's Fair has a requirement that hoops not be more than 110".  So that's where I started.

80"

Keep in mind that my corset cinches me down  6 inches easy.

90"
100"
110"

Also, the notes from the TV pattern note that that particular hoop skirt is 36" in length, so that is how long I made my straps.

I made the waistband large enough to fit me when I'm not corseted... but its drawstring, so will cinch down to the 38" I corset to.

Dicken's Fair Costume Approved!

My Dicken's Fair costume has been approved.  Yippee!   

So the long and the short of making it.

The Skirt.
The skirt is actually 7 panels (gored) using the skirt pattern from Butterick 6196.  The regular pattern only uses 5 panels, but I added two when I bustled the skirt a few years ago.  I re-hemmed it so that it sits a few inches off the floor.  I just pleated the into a waist band and added a placket.  I made the skirt large enough to wear with or without a corset.

The Bodice.
The bodice is made using the lining pattern from TV456.  I used the upper sleeve pattern to make a pattern for the sleeve.  I did the math for the cuff as I wanted to be able to slip my hand through the cuff and not have to fasten it.

The Shawl.
Hand crocheted from about 5 skeins of gray lambswool blend.  Its big enough and basic enough to be used for several centuries of costumes.

The Tucker.
That would be the white blouse part in the close-up.  I went shopping at the thrift store for a blouse that closed around me neck and had pretty embroidery.  It cost about $4 at the thrift shop.

The Underthings.
The corset I've talked blogged about before here.
I also wore the corded petticoat and the cartridge pleated petticoat.

The Bonnet needs to be embellished but I'm very excited!

Florentine Dress (1556 or 1590)

So my fabric is pretty, has been washed and the bodice cut out.

The fabric is cut on the bias so I can chevron the seams.  I *thought* it was a good idea.  My green fabric (that used to have an antique gold stripe before it was washed) is VERY SQUIGGLY.  So I am flat lining it.  Easier said than done.  NOW I have to make all the edges line up. Great gods in heaven this is a trial worthy of Job.

Luckily for me - after some patient smoothing, I got it mostly done.  I sewed the layers together and then in a moment of bravery went straight into putting it together.  AND OMG (SQUEEEEE!) It WORKED!!!  Now it isn't perfect but I steadfastly refuse to fuss about it.  (and I'm not sure that the casual observer will really notice)

 I do apologize for the iphone photos, but my darling girl has packed away my proper camera for her costume fittings tomorrow.

1590-ish Italian/Florentine dress

I'm going to the Shakespeare picnic in September.  I need an Elizabethan Era dress.  I've chosen this painting by Allori, c1590 (or 1555-57).  The subject (depending on your scholarly opinion) is either Maria de Medici (1555-57)or Eleonora di Toledo de Medici (1590).  I don't really care which, because while the girl is pretty - this is all about the dress.

Now while I adore the peacock blue and yellow of the dress, I fell in love with a green striped fabric when shopping, so I'm using this as inspiration for my silhouette.


The painter of this portrait lived from 1535 to 1607 and this painting has been attributed to 1555-1557 and hangs in the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Austria. http://bit.ly/prw1ZR

Tudor Corset

Since the next GBACG event is a Shakespeare picnic; I need Tudor underthings.  Luckily, I have things that will work if I don't have time to make all new period correct garments.  If you aren't familiar with the history of clothes it can get very confusing.  I have finished a corset using the Corset Pattern Generator at the Elizabethan Costume Page.

This is really one of my favorite patterns to make and I'm currently on a test wear.  I like to wear any corset around the house for a while to figure out any spots that bind or any problems that might crop up at an event.

I chose to cord this corset much like my regency corset.  It makes it a little more comfortable to wear, but I made sure that the channels are big enough to fit 1/4 inch flat steel bones if Ifind it isn't supportive enough.  I closes in the front and back all the way so after wearing it a bit (and stretching it) I may need to take it in some.  I'm also debating just sewing a seam in the back to take it in as well.  We'll see.

Memories...

So my very first foray into historical costuming was in 1989-1990 when I met a girl in my history class that dressed up for fun!  While I can't remember specifics.  We used historical patterns to make drawers, chemise, corset and shirt.  We made FROM SCRATCH WITH NO INSTRUCTIONS hoop skirts, ruffled petticoats a la Scarlett and skirts...


The photos of us at the Azaela Trail in the spring follow.  As Cady would say "No judgements." 



The skirt and top are made out of very thin (almost lawn). The chemise and drawers were made of muslin.  The corset was made out of duck. The ruffled petticoat was made out of old sheets...

I also remember wearing this dress at a reenactment... There was a Civil War POW camp near where I grew up and while its a long story - I had family incarcerated there.  So I was asked to "come visit papa" and bring him blankets and food...  (I don't know who the actor was - but he totally liked the fried chicken I brought him in the basket.)

More Victorian Corset...

While the corset is functionally complete, I will add embellishments later on.

Victorian Corset

Butterick 4254

I've been very busy sewing and not posting.  I have almost completed a corset. I'm using a Butterick pattern as my base.  I'm actually very excited about this corset pattern as I can make a 18th century corset too!

 

I'm making the bottom right style and using a boning style inspired by the blue corset in Victoria and Albert's Underwear: Fashion in Detail page 86 & 87. 

 

I have decided to use a layer of white coutil, a layer of twill on the inside and I found in my stash some pretty cotton print for the fashion fabric. 

 

I have to say I had a lot of trepidation cutting into $25/yard coutil.  I "could" have purchased it cheaper, but that almost always includes a minimum purchase that is/was >$25 and/or purchase 5 or more yards of coutil.  While I like to sew, I don't see me making too many more corsets...

 

Although I'm familiar with bagging the inside layer to make it smooth, I've decided to make this in a way that's easier to alter.   I'm currently working on covering the grommets with a button hole stitch to make the corset a) prettier and b) make the lacing move through the grommets more smoothly.

close up of fashion fabric

One side pieced together (before grommets)

Grommets are time consuming.  It took 4 hours to punch holes and place the grommets in this corset.  Keep in mind that I was grommeting (and now sewing) through 6 layers of fabric.  In this pattern the back seam is folded over for the grommets.  I was also fortunate enough (or at least my arthritic hands were) to be able to use my friends grommet setter.

I will post photos later of the finished corset and when letting my fingers rest I'm working on making a corded petticoat - but more on that later.

Victorian outfit...

So since I want to go to (and work) Dicken's Fair this year my main project is a Victorian outfit.  Well, really two since I want a fancy party dress (for GBACG day) and a work (Upper Middle Class) outfit.  As with everything in costuming, 'tis best to work from the inside out.  For further disclosure at the age of 18 (or so) I spent 6 months to a year playing around doing Civil War re-enactments and made a complete outfit. (Yes I went camping in my corset. I'll have to hunt up the photo(s) and post about it later.)

1. Chemise - While I want to make a new one with the Indian cotton that I made V's from, I've a perfectly acceptable substitute for now - an old nightgown made of lawn.
2. Pantalettes or drawers - Yes, they will be split crotch.  No, I haven't a pattern for them yet... Do you have ANY idea of how difficult it is to go to the ladies room in hoops and a corset?
3. Corset - project du jour
4. Corded petticoat - project for tomorrow (or next week or really when I can get to it.)
5. Hoop skirt or cage crinoline. - Sigh. My choices are:
1. Make one myself - I haven't done this in 20 years, but I know how. Without a pattern even. Really it's more about do I want to...  (The question becomes - Is it worth being able to say 'I made everything I'm wearing except the shoes...')  Supplies (if I use a pattern) will run
1. Pattern $10.50 (TV 142)
   
2. Hoop wire $48
3. Bone casing $24
4. oh an some fabric <2 yards and 5 yards of grosgrain ribbon...
5. plus shipping and time (I estimate it will take about one day to make.)
   
2. Buy one. <$100 - the down side to this is that it's hard to find hoops in natural fabrics...
6. Over-petticoat - the last time it was all ruffled like Scarlet's...
7. the Fancy dress... (TV 456) - I already have a pretty brown plaid for it... and some cool olive green trim...squee!
8. the Work dress - well I have a skirt (in blue), really I need to make a bodice to go with it.  The skirt is one I use for many eras, re-working the waist as necessary to add fullness to the back or even it out.

Well, I'm off to the fabric store to pick up grommets for the above mentioned corset... Wish me luck!

Chemise

I've just finished a chemise for my daughter.  It's made of Indian cotton.  Due to her unique fitting issues I decided to drape the fabric on her to get what I wanted. (One shoulder sits higher than the other)  This also made the hem look off but it sits well on her. the side seams are machined and flat felled by hand.  The neckline, armseye and hem are all hand stitched.  I find in calming to stitch by hand.  It should be good for several time periods as I made the straps narrow enough and put enough scoop in the neckline to allow the straps to be pulled down on the shoulder. I added a lining in the shoulders to help sturdy it up a bit.  It's fairly simple and she will be adding lace around the neckline. We are considering adding a ruffle at the bottom; but I want to get started on my Victorian corset now...

The easy (supposedly) 18th century petticoat

I tend to do lots of research before I make something... sometimes its specific but most times I just read everything I can find on the subject and look for the similarities.  In making this skirt, I read all the blogs/articles listed below, some were merely (ha!) inspiration and others were like a map for what I wanted to do. 

Jessamy's Regency Costume Companion
La Couturiere Parisienne...
American Duchess 
La Couturiere Vienoise
Armed & Slightly Dangerous
and many others that I just can't seem to find at this point...

I just completed this petticoat for my 19 year old daughter.  The quick and easy description of what I did was measure the circumference of her in her pocket hoops and the distance between the floor and her side waist over the hoops. 

To make my life easier I cut the panels and sewed them together and hemmed the bottom.  The (probably) was way easier than trying to hem it while it was on V.  I used grosgrain ribbon for the waist ties.  I had her put on the pocket hoops and dropped the skirt over her head until the hem hit the floor.  Then I simply (kind of - if anything is simple when pinning to a squirming person) pinned the skirt to the waist ties...

Although this is all you HAVE to do to create this type of petticoat; I, OF COURSE, had to add a knife pleat ruffle along the bottom.  In general this wouldn't have been a problem at all, but the fabric tried REALLY hard to not have a pleat at the bottom of the skirt.  The sewing complications actually caused a lot of hilarity, but suffice to say 'tis done!

Costuming Shoes!

Here's a blog about shoes. The American Duchess is starting a line of costuming shoes. Check them out!