HSF #10 - Literature and HSF #22 Masquerade -Fancy Dress Queen of Hearts

As you can see I'm not terribly worried about doing challenges early (although cannot start them before they are announced) or late.  I simply want them all done so as to keep my creative juices flowing and learn some new skills.  I'm also horribly late on blogging about some of them because I have been very busy.

So close to being done.  I eventually spaced out the hearts on the sash more.

This dress was created to be part of the Dickens Fair Alice in Wonderland cast.  As you can see it is a Queen of Hearts dress.  I worked hard to combine a sense of puled from the attic trunks and freshly put together.

The bodice is actually an Elizabethan bodice from a costume I bought from friend. The ruffle and the sleeves are from the skirt fabric of the same dress.  The black cotton velvet skirt and oversleeves are part fabric purchased from a friends de-stash.  The gold fringe was originally left over from the bustle dress (Oh good lord, I haven't shown you all photos of THAT either...) but I was lucky to be able to source more since I would be needing it.

Long story shortened:

Lots of pins were used...

I started by dying 1/2 inch twill tape black and cutting out and hemming the knife pleated ruffle for the hem of the skirt.  I originally calculated that I would use 3 panels of the black velvet and ended up having to add another panel.  This meant that the red ruffle was 522 inches long and I made it 8 inches deep.  I feretted the hem 18th Century style so the black twill would peak out at the bottom.  Then I pleated the ruffle onto one inch twill tape so it would be removable if necessary.

I used the same treatment for the Black velvet skirt, except that I used white one inch twill to ferret the hem there it was supposed to give a nice pop at the transition - but it wasn't as dramatic as I had hoped. The skirt is cartridged pleated into a grosgrain waistband (which I may replace).

I added a peplum to the bodice to make it more Victorian looking and add two sets of sleeves and poof! The sash was a trial because I wanted to match/compliment the fringe that I had already added to the dress so I ended up using a brushed twill and the wrong side of gold lamé to make the sash.  I added more fringe to the ends of the sash and stiched it together in such a way that I have one wee little pocket to hold my gate pass and a couple of bills since I don't carry a bag (what queen does?) and voilà! A fancy Fancy Dress Queen of Hearts!


The Challenge: Literature & Masquerade

Fabric: cotton Velvet (black and red), red silk taffeta, and white silk, brushed twill and some lamé
Pattern: none... o.O, I drafted everything free hand or used a toile I had on hand...
Year: 1850-1860 Fancy Dress
Notions: LOTS of thread, hooks & eyes, twill tape, dye,grosgrain ribbon, three tone Italian tassel fringe... and a lot of patience
How historically accurate is it? I think its pretty good.  The fabrics are correct (except maybe the lamé - which could probably substitute for cloth of gold - but since I'm using the wrong side it makes no never-mind except that it wiggles when you sew... :()
Hours to complete:I don't think I want to add it up.  I've been working at it since early October (evenings and weekends and put the finishing touches on by the second weekend of Fair.   I'd say a good starting estimate is 2-3 40 hour weeks (lots and lots of hand sewing). I've a couple of things left to tweak, but it is wearable and beautiful.
First worn: Dickens Fair November 2013
Total cost: somewhere between $400 and $500 for materials, labor?  80 to 120 hours - so a final cost is $1,200 to $2,900 depending on the hourly rate at which I pay myself (mentally that is and NOT including accessories).... o.O


*** I PROMISE to add photos of me IN the dress and a post about the Bustle Gown is forthcoming... Just look for me on Facebook if you don't want to be patient.

My Life as a Pattern Tester

So, in early April I volunteered to be a pattern tester.  The main requirement were that I need to follow the directions and be able to express any problems and identify typos, etc.   Also I need to do it sooner rather than later.  The pattern that I'm testing is the Laughing Moon Pleated Wrapper (#120).  On Saturday (4/27) I received my pattern in the mail.  After much squeeeeing and jumping up and down, I started reading to find out how much fabric I need etc. leading to the following post:

April 27:  So with complete lack of forethought, I volunteered to be a pattern tester. For some reason my stash does NOT have 8.5 yards of cotton calico. I have taffeta, velvet and muslin. No calico.

 I went to the local fabric store (Joann's) to search for fabric, unfortunately every fabric I liked was not enough.  It did not help that most bolts in that section are 8 yards... nonetheless, I found a pretty fabric (only 6.5 yards) that I think I can use.  I will need a coordinating fabric for the yoke and maybe some of the hem and the belt.  Those are however design choices that will necessitate deviating from the instructions a bit.

I started cutting out the pattern pieces and noted any differences in labeling etc from the printed instructions. after a search for scissors that are allowed to cut paper, I set forth!  LM provided a lovely cutting layout diagram, but as I didn't have the proper yardage, I had to make some changes.  The first was that if I cut out the sleeves first, then the skirts, I could use a coordinating fabric for the yoke, belt and piping.  Also, I'm thinking of a hem treatment that wasn't in the original design so that will go on last.

April 28th:  Its the silly things that save fabric. For example the finished length of the dress is 64 inches. My CB to Floor measurement is *only* 57.5. I have a habit of making my Dickens dresses floor length without petticoats and letting my hoops/petticoats raise it to walking length. So *some* of my worry about fabric is dealt with from the start. I need to lop 6.5 inches off EACH skirt panel. I can save 2/3 of a yard this way! woohoo!

I should amend that thought as the dress progressed, belted the un-hemmed length is 2-3 inches off the floor.  (Live and learn I always say.)  Unbelted tho - it just hits the floor.  So maybe I should have only taken out 3 inches.

April 29:  not feeling well so I stayed home. I decided in my random moments of feeling better to cut out the main pane of the dress. Because I didn't buy enough fabric, I'm needing to be careful I know that I will have to piece at least some of it. I cut out the front panels first so I could get them in one piece. The back panels only need 9 more inches. woo-hoo! That's easily made up in the left overs from the side from cutting out such long pieces!

The dress is going together quickly and I think that I'll be done by Sunday making this a 7 day dress, most of which was done in the evenings after work.

Some places where I deviated from the pattern and instructions.

1. I hand pleated the skirt into the yoke instead of following the markings as I used a size 26 skirt and a size 22 yoke.  I *did* try to keep as close to the diagram as I could.

2. I used coordinating fabric for the piping, belt and sleeve lining.  I like that it breaks up the print some and (to me) looks more authentic as I can't imaging making a work dress out of new material.  A morning dress for upper class ladies sure!  That is not what I'm going for.

3. I'm adding a hem treatment.  I am using the coordinating fabric to add a band around the hem.  This was common during the period for a number of reasons.  It hid old raggedy hems.  It allows a longer hem.  In the correct colors it hides dirt.  And (most importantly) breaks up the print again.

Other thoughts on the pattern

1. The pattern calls for stitching down the pleats at the waist.  I have not yet done that, but I can see how it would keep the pleats nice in the bodice area.

2. I believe with piecing that it would be possible to get this dress out of the 6.5 yards of fabric I had.

3. Everyone needs to know their belted CB to Floor measurement.

PS.  I stalled a bit on the dress as my hands gave out on the buttonholes... also, I haven't completed the belt (I find I like the look of the dress with my leather belt)  I will continue to work to finish it so I can wear it at CosCo.

essentially done (except for buttons and button holes and a belt)

PPS. - If I can get the button holes done by the end of August - this can be a HSF submission!!!

PPPS - I promise to post more photos when done.

Silhouettes

This is a photo heavy post.

After completing my Bustle Pad, I took the time to take some photos of the silhouettes I can make with different combinations of padding.

First, I currently have three different pads.

In our area we call this a kicker.
Mine is VERY flat from being squished  and packed flat.

Bustle Pad (large)

This is a small pad.

Here are the shapes I can make by combining them.  I deliberately used my regency apron to show the fall of lightweight fabric and the difference that padding can make to a hemline.

Prof. Sprout with just the apron.  

Prof. Sprout with Bustle Pad.

Prof. Sprout with Kicker

Prof. Sprout with Bustle Pad and Kicker..

Prof. Sprout with Bustle Pad, Kicker and Small Pad. 

By combining them I can approximate the padding of several eras - from Georgian to Bustle.  For example, the small pad can be used with my hoops for 1860's  and I can use either the kicker or the bustle pad for Georgian, (depending on how big I need/want that bump to be...).  I also took the time to have a friend come by and measure my waist to floor length in several of the combinations.  The new Bustle Pad makes my center back measurement 4 inches longer than center front.

Costume Build List (Part One)

Also known as The UnEnding List of Things to Do, But Make Me Happy So They Are Worth It.

So I took some time to sit down and write out all my projects.  I have two lists.  One if for myself and another is for Dickens.  My list includes projects for me, gifts and projects for Victoria and Meghan (They mostly need prodding to work on their projects but still its use of my machine.)  The projects for Charlie are lower priority, mostly because the are things for him to wear with Victoria...

This list does not include other sewing related tasks such as
Historical Sew Fortnightly (but I think some will apply!)
Attending Costume College
Helping Meghan Move
Moving Victoria's Room
Re-Instating my Sewing Room

Some items have deadlines (Dickens related things)- others do not (ie Kana has been a to-do for a couple of years now)

MY LIST

• Corded Petticoats (3? - one for each of the girls)
• Queen of Hearts (Two parts - repair and make another)
• Alice Cape - blue with white stripes (note to self - purchase 1' white grosgrain - ~20-30 yards)
• Alice muff - white rabbit fur of course 
• Sash for green stripe regency dress
• overdress (regency)
• pelisse
• curacao
• Pink Plaid
• Green Kirtle
• Chemise -Regency long sleeve
• 30's Dress (I will commission this one, but I have fabric..)
• 50's Dress
• Florentine (not yet finished, but technically wearable)
• Quilted Petticoat
• Round Gown
• Pantalettes (Alice, QoH, and a spare one or two)
• Pirate shirt (Victoria*)
• Blue Kirtle (Victoria)
• Breeches (Charlie)
• Coat (Charlie) - Actually he should have a couple Victorian, Revolutionary, and Regency
• Kana (Victoria)
• Belle Steampunk (Victoria*)
• Tricorns (cuz pirates amirite?)
• Blue Dress (Meghan*)
• Pantalettes (Meghan*)
• dino corset (Meghan - tudor style*)
• rapunzel corset (Meghan - 18th century style*)
• steampunk corset (Meghan - underbust*)

Its not much right?

Hoops - Caged

During a bazaar earlier this year I managed to pick up two old hoop skirts for $20.  So after some investigation I began to take apart this one. While the skirt is nice as you can see it just doesn't fit my more Rubenesque figure.  Also, the other hoops were actually a smaller circumference...

As inspiration, I used these instructions from the Dreamstress...  I also used some photos of cage crinolines... and the circumference of the TV141.  When I finished my cage, I threw the petticoat over it and noticed that I need to shorten it about an inch to be sure it stays under my petticoat - or I can "bag" the two bottom hoops.  Not quite sure which I will choose, but I'm happy.

So while I had a hard time finding info on the progression of the hoop sizes (without purchasing a pattern that is).  I decided that 10 inches would work for me since I only had four hoops.  I also worked from the bottom up.  Dicken's Fair has a requirement that hoops not be more than 110".  So that's where I started.

80"

Keep in mind that my corset cinches me down  6 inches easy.

90"
100"
110"

Also, the notes from the TV pattern note that that particular hoop skirt is 36" in length, so that is how long I made my straps.

I made the waistband large enough to fit me when I'm not corseted... but its drawstring, so will cinch down to the 38" I corset to.

Dicken's Fair Costume Approved!

My Dicken's Fair costume has been approved.  Yippee!   

So the long and the short of making it.

The Skirt.
The skirt is actually 7 panels (gored) using the skirt pattern from Butterick 6196.  The regular pattern only uses 5 panels, but I added two when I bustled the skirt a few years ago.  I re-hemmed it so that it sits a few inches off the floor.  I just pleated the into a waist band and added a placket.  I made the skirt large enough to wear with or without a corset.

The Bodice.
The bodice is made using the lining pattern from TV456.  I used the upper sleeve pattern to make a pattern for the sleeve.  I did the math for the cuff as I wanted to be able to slip my hand through the cuff and not have to fasten it.

The Shawl.
Hand crocheted from about 5 skeins of gray lambswool blend.  Its big enough and basic enough to be used for several centuries of costumes.

The Tucker.
That would be the white blouse part in the close-up.  I went shopping at the thrift store for a blouse that closed around me neck and had pretty embroidery.  It cost about $4 at the thrift shop.

The Underthings.
The corset I've talked blogged about before here.
I also wore the corded petticoat and the cartridge pleated petticoat.

The Bonnet needs to be embellished but I'm very excited!

More Victorian Corset...

While the corset is functionally complete, I will add embellishments later on.

Victorian Corset

Butterick 4254

I've been very busy sewing and not posting.  I have almost completed a corset. I'm using a Butterick pattern as my base.  I'm actually very excited about this corset pattern as I can make a 18th century corset too!

 

I'm making the bottom right style and using a boning style inspired by the blue corset in Victoria and Albert's Underwear: Fashion in Detail page 86 & 87. 

 

I have decided to use a layer of white coutil, a layer of twill on the inside and I found in my stash some pretty cotton print for the fashion fabric. 

 

I have to say I had a lot of trepidation cutting into $25/yard coutil.  I "could" have purchased it cheaper, but that almost always includes a minimum purchase that is/was >$25 and/or purchase 5 or more yards of coutil.  While I like to sew, I don't see me making too many more corsets...

 

Although I'm familiar with bagging the inside layer to make it smooth, I've decided to make this in a way that's easier to alter.   I'm currently working on covering the grommets with a button hole stitch to make the corset a) prettier and b) make the lacing move through the grommets more smoothly.

close up of fashion fabric

One side pieced together (before grommets)

Grommets are time consuming.  It took 4 hours to punch holes and place the grommets in this corset.  Keep in mind that I was grommeting (and now sewing) through 6 layers of fabric.  In this pattern the back seam is folded over for the grommets.  I was also fortunate enough (or at least my arthritic hands were) to be able to use my friends grommet setter.

I will post photos later of the finished corset and when letting my fingers rest I'm working on making a corded petticoat - but more on that later.

Victorian outfit...

So since I want to go to (and work) Dicken's Fair this year my main project is a Victorian outfit.  Well, really two since I want a fancy party dress (for GBACG day) and a work (Upper Middle Class) outfit.  As with everything in costuming, 'tis best to work from the inside out.  For further disclosure at the age of 18 (or so) I spent 6 months to a year playing around doing Civil War re-enactments and made a complete outfit. (Yes I went camping in my corset. I'll have to hunt up the photo(s) and post about it later.)

1. Chemise - While I want to make a new one with the Indian cotton that I made V's from, I've a perfectly acceptable substitute for now - an old nightgown made of lawn.
2. Pantalettes or drawers - Yes, they will be split crotch.  No, I haven't a pattern for them yet... Do you have ANY idea of how difficult it is to go to the ladies room in hoops and a corset?
3. Corset - project du jour
4. Corded petticoat - project for tomorrow (or next week or really when I can get to it.)
5. Hoop skirt or cage crinoline. - Sigh. My choices are:
1. Make one myself - I haven't done this in 20 years, but I know how. Without a pattern even. Really it's more about do I want to...  (The question becomes - Is it worth being able to say 'I made everything I'm wearing except the shoes...')  Supplies (if I use a pattern) will run
1. Pattern $10.50 (TV 142)
   
2. Hoop wire $48
3. Bone casing $24
4. oh an some fabric <2 yards and 5 yards of grosgrain ribbon...
5. plus shipping and time (I estimate it will take about one day to make.)
   
2. Buy one. <$100 - the down side to this is that it's hard to find hoops in natural fabrics...
6. Over-petticoat - the last time it was all ruffled like Scarlet's...
7. the Fancy dress... (TV 456) - I already have a pretty brown plaid for it... and some cool olive green trim...squee!
8. the Work dress - well I have a skirt (in blue), really I need to make a bodice to go with it.  The skirt is one I use for many eras, re-working the waist as necessary to add fullness to the back or even it out.

Well, I'm off to the fabric store to pick up grommets for the above mentioned corset... Wish me luck!

Victorian Corset

So my corset is to be of the Victorian Era and is inspired by this beautiful blue corset from V&A's Underwear: Fashion in Detail. This particular corset is on page 86-87. So as I'm not fond of the idea of trying to create pattern pieces from a photo as many of my costume-y friends are wont to do I set off to find a regular old tissue pattern that approximates the lines of this corset. What I found was Butterick 4254. And although it doesn't look exactly like the other, I think it will do. The mock up was done in a muslin. Many folks advised me against it, but I'm short on cash and really just want to see if the pattern in big enough to go around me properly and long enough to go from breast to hip. I think that a muslin is the way to go until I get to an actual trimming-down-my-waist mockup. Anyway, Butterick patterns tend (I hear) to come with a LOT of ease and generous seam allowances so after making it up I found that cutting the largest size will probably produce a corset that closes without trimming me down much but is at least 4 inches shorter than I would prefer it to be.

So after tracing out the patterns and adding 4 inches to the length - I've started putting together another muslin. (see why I'm using muslin? I don't feel bad about throwing away the first mock up. I would if I had used twill or gods forbid coutil) I actually have the second mockup halfway done and feel confident enough that I feel that I could start cutting out the twill. But I'm lazy and would rather write a blog post instead of sewing tonight. My guess is that after the mockup is finished I'm going to cut two layers of twill so that I have three layers finished. I plan on stitching each layer together per the recommended seam allowances and take it in as needed.

I plan on the boning placement being more like the blue corset. But I kinda plan on freestyling it as I go mirroring each side. I've tons of spiral boning and tips so hopefully I'll end up with a comfy corset that trims my waist down 7 to 8 inches with an inch of opening in the back.

Good thing I have great costume-y friends that will be easily (hopefully) bribed to come over and pin the final product down to size when I try it on.

Wish me luck!